Sorrento: The Hamptons of Antiquity
by Tony Perrottet
Italian movie stars and pop idols are still snapping up real estate around the seaside town of Sorrento – Siren’s Point – unaware that 2,000 years ago it was also the very heart of the ancient Romans’ favorite holiday destination. In fact, the entire sun-drenched coastline from the Bay of Naples south to the precipitous Amalfi Coast has always been lined with sumptuous luxury villas, qualifying it as the Hamptons of Antiquity.
Aristocrats would flock here in summer to relax by the beach, swim in marble pools, sail to nearby islands in their silk-canopied yachts and enjoy seafood banquets al fresco beneath the stars. The most magnificent villa in Sorrento, whose remains can now be seen on the Cape of Hercules (Capo di Sorrento), was built by the ancient bon vivant Pollius Felix in the mid first century AD. It rose in three marble tiers with its own vaulted bath house, manicured gardens, salt-water pools filled with eels and a private beach that could only be reached through a natural arch in the golden-hued rock. Many other fabulous getaways clung to the jagged cliff sides, crowding one another out for the most commanding sea views – and, naturally, bitter legal cases erupted in the Roman courts whenever pushy developers blocked out someone’s favorite vista.
Much like modern beach resorts, Sorrento and the surrounding towns gained a reputation for wild summer celebrations. On sultry Italian nights, the hills would ring with carousing, as revelers staggered from one beach gathering to the next – including nude swimming parties, where they would enjoy fresh oysters with the excellent local wine. Prostitutes cruised just off-shore in barges, garlanding the waves with rose petals and competing with one another in singing competitions. Not everyone was impressed with the debauchery, including the straight-laced philosopher Seneca who came to the beach in an attempt to relax. ”Unmarried women are common property.” He complained after another sleepless night listening to the revelry. “Old men behave as if they were young boys, and a lot of young boys like young girls.”













